There are lots of different dress designs out there and more every year! It's just so hard to pick between them, isn't it? Perhaps you've got a design in mind that you want someone to make up as a bespoke dress but you don't know any of the terminologies? You don't know what the shapes are called, or what those little pieces of gorgeous decoration are called. Well, take a look at this post and soon you'll be chatting among the best of them and they won't have any idea that really, you're just a duck paddling in the water! (Calm on the surface, swimming like a motorboat underneath for those that don't know the analogy)
Dress shapes A-Line - This shape is good for all body types. An A-line dress means that it is fitted from the shoulders to the hips, then widening out to the base of the skirt. However, some A-lines, widen from the shoulders and go straight to the bottom of the skirt, ignoring the waist and hips,
Empire- This silhouette is good for apple shapes looking to cover their waist or athletics looking to increase their bust.
This is a style in which the dress has a fitted bodice that ends just below the bust and a gathered skirt that is long and loose-fitting. They work to hide any unwanted 'problem areas'.
Ball Gown - This is good for all body types but Petites may look lost in it
A Ball Gown is a floor-length dress that typically seen as the 'Princess dress' but don't call it that, else you'll end up with something different (see further down)! This is the big puffy dress that you see princesses wearing in the Disney films. They are great for feeling and like a princess on the day but aren't practical to move around in and are very warm to wear!
Fit and Flare/ Trumpet - These are good for those with an hourglass figure or pear-shaped bodies.
Fit and Flare dresses are fitted to the waist and flare out either at the hips or further down at a sharp angle (rather than gradual as A-Lines do). A trumpet is one that goes out mid-thigh.
Fit and Flare dresses are perfect for showing off all those curves that you've got, giving you a stunning hourglass figure with great definition!
Fishtail - Good for those with an hourglass figure Another Fit and Flare, the Fishtail instead goes out at the knee, giving that fishtail look. It is also often called a mermaid dress.
Princess shape - This is suited for all body types
This is not to be mistaken for a ball gown. The 'Princess Line' or 'Princess dress' is a fitted dress that is cut in long panels without a join horizontally at the waist or elsewhere. Instead of making the shape with horizontal seams, it is achieved instead with shaped pieces and long seams in the sewing process.
Tea-length - These look great on petite brides but be wary that they can make you look shorter!
A tea-length dress is one with a hemline (bottom of the skirt) that is between the knee and the ankle. Traditional ones fall just above the ankle but more modern ones are more like yot hit 3-4 inches above the ankle. Think of the old 50s wives dresses.
These are great for the freedom they give your feet. No long hems to trip up on, no masses of heavy material to drag around and they make you stand as a little less traditional!
Basque - This is good for slender people of those with short torsos
These are dresses that start with a basque/corset and have a skirt attached to it so-to-speak. They are very fitted, supportive and boned in the torso and loose and flowing or A-line style in the skirt. They are great for enhancing a bosom and sucking in tummies.
Column/Sheath - Good for those with athletic figures
A sheath wedding dress is one that skims the body, falling straight to the floor from the hip line without going out much if at all. It's perfect if you want an effortless gown that is easy to move around in.
These dresses tend to be simple and are very comfortable and practical to wear. Nightmares about going to the loo on the big day? Not with this dress! They also tend to be cheaper as not as much material has gone into making them. If you're on a tight budget, you can get away with getting something that's not technically a wedding dress but still looks like one!
Drop waist - Good for those with small hips and/long torso's
This is a dress that is fitted to flare out below the waistline. Most often, it'll be just below the waist but trumpets and fishtails are also classed as drop waist wedding dresses.
They are great if you are slender with a smaller bustline and hips as it lets you show off your long legs, delicate collarbones and toned arms.
Necklines
V Neck
V-necks provide a lower neckline that serves to lessen your bust, lengthen your neck, narrow your shoulders, make you look more proportioned (when done right) and sometimes it can even offset the short length of a waist by drawing the eye in a vertical direction.
High - vintage style
This style is worn more often lately as the vintage style is coming into fashion and there are many famous people who have worn them (Kate Upton, Nicky Hilton, Miranda Kerr and Kate and Pippa Middleton to name a few). Halter necks are also known as high necklines on occasion when they have a piece of material covering the chest.
Bateau/Boatneck
The Bateau (or Boatneck) neckline is what Megan Markle had on her wedding dress to Harry and is great for offsetting wide hips as it follows the curve of the collarbone. It's best for brides with long necks and smaller heads as it can make both look wider and will also help if you have a small chest or bulk arms as it covers both beautifully!
Illusion
An illusion neckline allows a bride to carry off the strapless look whilst having a supporting element that is stylish and beautiful and makes the dress look like it's just clinging to your skin.
Marisol by Morilee - Whilst this dress is no longer available, it shows you the illusion style.
One-shoulder/Asymmetrical neckline
These can be quite dramatic on a dress. Depending on the material you have used, it can be elegant, casual or sleek. If you've got narrow shoulders and thin arms, you'll look great with this neckline as it can give a wider effect around the area. You can also add detailing such as ruffles or accents to draw the attention upwards, adding fullness.
If you've got a long neck and nice collarbone, you'll also look great in this.
If you've got a full bust, then you should pay more attention to this neckline. You can wear it well but it will accentuate your bust and offers less support.
Off the shoulder
This gives a teaser of the tops of your shoulders and collarbone but still gives arm coverage and can be used with full or partial sleeves to cover up those pesky wings we all hate! Avoid this if you've got broad shoulders as it will only accentuate them and give them the appearance of being endless!
Strapless
This is possibly the most popular style, no straps and a straight neckline. It's a go-to choice if you've got a strong collarbone and elegant neck. Not great if you've got a smaller chest but for bustier brides, these look great, especially when you do it as a sweetheart neckline (which is where it dips in the middle, mimicking the top of a heart).
Spaghetti Straps
This can be combined with any shape of the bodice and just adds a little something extra for if you feel there is just something missing. It's also great for if you're a bustier bride, for helping to support.
Scoop
This provides a U shape that can be cut pretty low, similar to the V-Neck but without the harsh, sharp lines. It's flattering for pretty much any, body style and chest size which makes it extremely popular.
Cowl Neck
This is basically a baggy scoop neckline. Where the top of the dress ruches to create a baggy look and is great on older brides. It can be done where it's closer to the neck or really low cut for a more risqué and evening gown look.
Halter
This usually has a strap (usually from a sweetheart bodice) that reaches up to behind your neck and is sometimes used to describe high necklines with deep armholes as well. It works best for brides with broad shoulders.
Jewel
This has a round neckline that sits at the base of the throat rather than at your bust like most others do. It is also similar to the t-shirt neckline and will make you look bustier so is great for if you've not got much up top. Jewel necklines are often also halter necks.
Back Design
You also need to decide on how you want the back to be done.
Criss Cross
This is a beautiful way to show off your shoulders with buttons down the back of the bottom half of your dress. This is often paired with a fit and flare dress.
Open Back
These are perfect for if you want to capture your guests attention and make them focus on the dress a bit more (as these often make you wonder just how it is being held in place) and are perfect for garden weddings. Pair it with an up-do to show off your back even more.
Keyhole Back
Can't decide if you want an open back or not? Go for a keyhole! You'll have plenty of coverage whilst also showing some skin! You could even get it done in the shape of a heart!
Illusion Back
Be covered and also show off your back at the same time! This is good for if you need upper torso support but want to show off your back.
Strappy
For an open back that needs that little bit of detail. Intricately beaded straps will catch the eye.
Fabrics - most common Duchess Satin This is an elegant and lustrous fabric used in wedding dresses. Most dresses will have this as a base fabric as it's very sturdy and strong whilst being very soft to handle but often you'll find it being used as the main fabric as well. It has a good feel to it when you wear it and has a good weight to it as well. It is not advised to opt for this material if you're going to a hot country or will be getting wed on a beach as you will get quite warm in it, It is great for colder weddings though.
Taffetta
This is a crisp and smooth fabric and is a wonderfully crinkly material that is prone to wrinkles (so bear that in mind if picking this material). It's quite a noisy material but has a lovely rustle to it when you move. You can get an array of colours in taffeta, even some two-tone varieties for some more unusual. This material is often used for prom dresses but some brides do choose to wear cream and white versions of it.
Crepe
No not the food ;P Crepe is a beautifully lightweight fabric making it seem almost ethereal. Made predominately with silk or a light rayon, it works wonderfully for if you are looking for a dress with a soft silhouette.
Tulle
This is the material that those big puffy skirts are made from. That net-like material that puffs it out. Tutu's are also often made from this material. There are various weights you can get, some are softer than others. The stiffer you want it, the scratchier it will be on your skin. Be aware though, that if you opt for a nice soft one - which is ideal for wedding dresses - a lot of it will be needed to puff it out and this will push the price up for you. So if you're on a budget, think twice about if you really need your dress that big and bushy. alternatively, you can reach the bushy look with a hoop which will also allow airflow to your legs, enabling you to cool down. Layers of tulle get very warm very quick (imagine stepping into a hot bath) so its good for cold weddings but not for hot ones unless you've got a lot of air-con!
Lace
Lace is that wonderfully delicate material that decorates many dresses. Often you'll see lace appliques on dresses, or a lace piece over the top of the bodice. It's great to add detailing to a plain dress but can add a lot of costs, depending on what you want to do with it. Dresses that have lace allover, are lovely and simple without being plain and lends the eye to an almost vintage style.
There are multiple types of lace but this is something that your seamstress (if you're going bespoke) should go through with you.
Charmeuse Silk
This is a lightweight fabric with a satin weave and feels luxurious against your skin. It has a smooth and reflective finish whilst the back is dull. It's very similar to silk but charmeuse is shinier and is the most wrinkle-resistant of the silk family however any wrinkles are difficult to get out.
Chiffon
Chiffon is a wonderfully airy and lightweight material, perfect for beach weddings. It has a fine mesh-like weave that gives it a transparent appearance without being full of holes. It is a very delicate material and rips easily, so if you are going to be very active, it's probably not the best choice. Dancing etc is fine, just don't go climbing any cliffs!
Often, a chiffon dress will have either multiple layers to it or have a base material to prevent the dress from becoming sheer.
Organza
Organza is a thin and plain weave material that is traditionally made from silk and is a very sheer fabric. Modern organzas are typically made with synthetic fibres such as polyester or nylon. It's very similar to chiffon and works more or less the same and is great to create some more volume in a dress but it's a stiffer fabric and wrinkles easily. It's also often used to add a layer of fabric for lace decoration to go on.
Silk
Silk is a very shiny and natural material (made from natural fibres) and is possibly the most traditional choice for a wedding dress. It creates glamorous and sexy dresses that both cool and warms, making it perfect for weddings in all seasons!
Dupion
This is a silk-like material that resembles Shantung due to its high sheen. It's a very durable fabric and is suitable for weddings in any season and works with the majority of dress styles.
Adding some details Use of Brocade Material
This is an elegant material often chosen for winter/autumn wedding dresses. It has interesting raised Jacquard designs on it that catch the light (and is ideal for a more structured gown) that can provide a simple hint of detail without being in your face.
Use of pearls/diamantés
Pearls and diamantés will increase the price somewhat dramatically but can transform something plain into something that sparkles and catches the eye, that takes the breath away and makes you feel like a million dollars.
Lace
Well placed lace can make two dresses look completely different. For example, a simple sheath dress, no detailing on it. An identical dress, but with lace on the bodice. 2 completely different dresses, yet it is fundamentally the same.
Lace and diamantés/Pearls
This option adds on a fair amount of cost but those added sparkles can really be the finishing touch on a lacy dress, drawing attention to the detailing on the lace and really adding a special elegant touch.
Embroidery
Cleverly done embroidery in just the right places can make your dress look stunning and unique. Done in the same shade or an off shade to the dress gives a faint idea of detail whereas coloured thread used gives a bold statement.
Accessories
Belts, shawls, jackets and coats/cloaks are a great way to finish off your dress and can make it look completely different!
The dress from earlier, with the sheath base and lace bodice. Add a diamanté belt to that and you've got another dress! Now pair that with a nice faux fur bolero and voila! You're ready and elegant for a winter wedding!
Other terms Appliqué
This is ornamental needlework that is used to attach decorative pieces of lace to your dress and are usually already attached to another fabric such as tulle, to make it easier to attach seamlessly.
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